Although Diamond Cut forms part of the 4C’s Diamond education which ensures you choose the right quality diamond there is also the diamond cut that forms the actual shape of a polished stone.
The type of cut can give the diamond more sparkle or a more elegant look and some change with fashion. Essentially though it’s a personal choice.
An engagement ring is something that you will wear for a long time if not your entire life, so choosing a shape that compliments your style is important.
Mayfair Jewellers specialise is designer diamond jewellery for wedding and engagement so we can help you make the correct choice. To start you off we have provided an in-depth visual guide below into each diamond shape and there properties.
Round Brilliant Cut
To achieve the results needed for a perfect round diamond, its has to have 58 facet cuts and divided among its crown, girdle and pavilion. The crown is the top of the diamond, the girdle is the widest part of the diamond and the pavilion is the base.
This popular cut has the perfect proportions and symmetry to maximise a diamond’s brilliance and fire.
The Round brilliant diamond is the most popular of diamond cuts and sells more than 80% compared to its brothers and sisters shapes.
Oval Cut Diamond
The Oval cut was an extremely popular choice as a centre stone for engagement rings as recently as 2018, and it now appears to be back in vogue yet again.
Perhaps the reason this cut remains so enduringly popular is that it has the effect of elongating the finger, which can be very flattering for shorter, wider fingers, making them appear more slender. This is due to the Oval’s rounded, symmetrical, taller shape. The Oval cut’s longer shape can also make it seem larger than differently-shaped stones with a similar weight.
Oval shaped diamonds have existed for more than 200 years. However, the first modern Oval cut appeared in the 1960s. This was designed by the Russian diamond cutter, Lazare Kaplan, who was later recognised for his unique cut in the Jewellers International Hall of Fame. Kaplan was known for his ability to split a rough diamond into smaller stones with a single blow – a process known as cleaving.
Square Princess Cut Diamond
The Princess cut is another popular shape, although one that has fallen out of fashion slightly compared to a few years ago. The face-up shape of the princess cut is square or rectangular and the profile or side-on shape is similar to that of an inverted pyramid with four beveled sides.
The princess cut is a relatively new diamond cut, having been created in the 1980s. It has gained in popularity in recent years as a more distinctive alternative to the more popular round brilliant cut, in which the top of diamond, called the crown, is cut with a round face-up shape and the bottom, called the pavilion, is shaped similar to a cone
Pear Cut Diamond
A modified brilliant shape, the Pear cut diamond is a combination of the Round and Marquise shapes. Also known as a tear drop shape for its round bottom and sides which taper to a point. The unique look of the pear shape helps make it a popular choice for a variety of diamond jewellery.
As with the oval, the pear cut can be more suited for the smaller hand as it gives an elongated effect.
Marquise Cut Diamond
Another cut which has the effect of elongating and flattering the finger is the elegant Marquise Brilliant cut. A popular choice as a central stone, the Marquise is often set with pear-shaped or round side stones.
Similar to the Oval cut, the Marquise is long and oval in shape, but it differs from the Oval in that it tends to be narrower with more pointed tips. These features give the Marquise a similar appearance to the hull of a small boat, which is why its shape is sometimes referred to as a “navette”, meaning “little boat” in French.
The Marquise can sometimes create a “bow-tie” effect, as when light passes through the diamond it can cast a shadow across the surface of the stone, which can diminish its brilliance. This effect can be mitigated by making the pavilion deeper and calibrating the angles of the table and facets. This enables light to be diffused more effectively across the centre of the stone.
The Marquise (meaning “French Royalty title”) first appeared in Paris in 1745 and was designed by King Louis XV’s court jeweller. King Louis apparently commissioned the jeweller to design a diamond in the image of his beautiful mistress’ smile.
The shape of the Marquise cut was modified throughout the 20th century, eventually evolving into the Marquise Brilliant cut we recognise today. It was particularly sought-after during the 1960s and the 1980s, and we are now seeing another resurgence in the popularity of this unusual, striking cut.
Heart Cut Diamond
A Brilliant cut Heart shaped diamond has romantic symbolism so it is a common gift for Valentine’s Day or Wedding anniversary. The heart shape is a brilliant cut which that can be modified so that the number of pavilion main facets may be 6, 7, or 8.
The cutter really has to have dedicated skill and time to create each heart shaped diamond. The cutting process also has to give the diamond a strong outline and an even shape to finish.
The stunning look of the heart-shaped diamond helps make it a fantastic choice for a variety of diamond jewellery.
Emerald Cut Diamond
The Emerald cut is traditionally rectangular and most closely resembles the natural diamond shape. t is known as a step cut because its flat planes resemble stair steps. The flat planes of the outside edges allow for a variety of side stones shapes.
Regarded as an elegant cut stone the Emerald diamond is not as brilliant as the round shape or princess shape, it is considered to be vintage in style, and less “flashy” than other shapes.
Asscher Cut Diamond
The Asscher cut diamonds are very fashionable and make fantastic engagement rings. This Diamond boasts 8 edges, projects a distinct fire when cut correctly and has the the same linear, step-like facets like an Emerald cut diamond. The Asscher diamond also has a certain antique, elegance about it and is a popular choice for art deco style engagement rings.
he Asscher cut is named after the Dutch brothers who first designed the original cut in Amsterdam during the early 20th century.
Styled in a typical Art Deco design, the cut became extremely popular for engagement rings during the 1920s, but became a rarity for decades after the style went out of vogue. For a long time, it was only possible to find original-style Asscher cut diamond rings in antique shops or through specialist Art Deco jewellers.
At the beginning of the 21st century, the Asscher cut was redesigned, with extra facets added for a more brilliant shine. This move seems to have paid off, as the cut now seems to be gaining popularity with 21st-century brides-to-be looking for vintage inspiration.
The Asscher cut is similar to the Emerald cut, with its square or rectangular shape, trimmed corners, deep pavilion, high crown, and broad, flat plane. It is sometimes known as a step-cut as, viewed from above, it has a step-like appearance.
The Asscher cut is also known for its “Hall of Mirrors” optical illusion effect, achieved by using diamonds with a high level of clarity to create a prism effect with maximum brilliance and lustre.
Radiant Cut Diamond
The radiant cut is a relatively recent invention, this square or rectangular cut combines the quality of the emerald shape diamond with the brilliance of the round. The original radiant cut had 61 facets, excluding eight girdle facets.
The ideal proportions of a radiant cut diamond are generally considered to be when the length of the diamond is about 1½ times greater than its width.
Cushion Cut Diamond
The antique style Cushion cut, known also as Pillow-cut or Candlelight diamond, and most often resembles a cross between the old Mine cut and a modern Oval cut.
Not as fiery or brilliant as many of the newer cuts, but it has a romantic and classic long lasting look and inspires difference.